Florianópolis, nobody argues, it's beautiful. Oceanic island with 53 km long in the north-south direction and between 5 and 15 km in length in the east-west direction, it contains several worlds in its interior. Lagoa da Conceição is one of these worlds, which competes with the Hercílio Luz bridge - a work of engineering art that was the first link between Florianópolis and the mainland - as the city's main postcard.
Life in Lagoa da Conceição is constantly being maintained, in tune with the seasons. It is a universe that obeys the cycles of nature, but it has a special characteristic: geographically located in the center of the island, surrounded by some of the most famous beaches in Santa Catarina, Lagoa da Conceição is a meeting point, a crossroads of paths and spirits. , a border world between many worlds...
Multiple Facets
The diversity of the Lagoon can be seen in nature, in human types, in the activities developed there.
Nature is blessed: a water table of approximately 15 square kilometers surrounded by mountains and connected by a canal to the sea. In many places around it, there is only access by boat, and most of its shores are still practically untouched.
This universe offers several perspectives. To the south is Canto da Lagoa. Ten years ago, the square meter there was very cheap; today, the place is highly valued. University professors, civil servants, the nouveau riche, alternatives in search of quality of life and retirees are vying for space with the natives. They are modern high-end houses that share the still rural territory with islanders' houses that have been there for generations. There are elderly people who haven't been to downtown Florianópolis for a long time - in some cases years -.
the urban face
Another perspective is that of the "Centrinho". There are shopping malls, newsstands, supermarkets, video rental stores, gas stations, surfwear shops, some bars, Casarão da Lagoa - a house of culture that offers workshops in music, photography, art, restaurants , the marinas and the stone bridge, under which we cross the Lagoon to its east side. The "Centrinho" is the urban face of the Lagoa and the gateway for those coming from the center of Florianópolis, after crossing a hill with sinuous curves from which another perspective of the Lagoon is revealed: the Mirante do Turista.
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Before crossing the stone bridge, on the left, is the path to Costa da Lagoa. It is possible to drive for a few kilometers; then, just on foot, by trail. Or by boat - most houses, bars and restaurants in the locality have a pier for mooring. There are boats that provide collective transport, and it is also possible to charter them. There, life is completely rural. The boat trip is worth it and you can end up in one of the many restaurants on the coast, which offer the freshest seafood at ridiculously low prices.
Passing the stone bridge, you arrive at Avenida das Rendeiras, known by this name because of the "old traditional lacemakers" that can be found in small wooden houses along its length. They make bobbin lace, but the activity is on the brink of extinction. In contact with "foreigners", the new generation of lace makers is not convinced of continuing the traditions.
From the Lagoon to the Sea
After Avenida das Rendeiras, the paths widen. Soon after its end, there is a crossroads, opposite, about 5 km, is Joaquina, stage of popular stages of Brazilian and international surfing championships. On the left, going up the hill, is the road that leads to Barra da Lagoa, where it meets the sea. On the way, on the right, is the very cool Praia Mole. And Galheta, a nudist beach, recently listed as a conservation area by the City Hall, which can only be reached by trail starting at Praia Mole. To the left of the road, on top of the Morro, there is a more panoramic view of the lake than that of Mirante do Turista.
At the bottom of the hill, after a radical descent with the view of the Lagoon on the left, watch out for a small bridge. A little further on, also on the left, is Ponta das Caranhas; there is a good restaurant with the same name. On the right, a narrow road leads to Fortaleza da Barra, where numerous restaurants offer tables with colorful umbrellas on top of piers over the channel that leads from the lagoon to the sea. There is the path of speedboats, jet-skys and fishing boats in their shuttle.
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After the bridge, you arrive at Barra da Lagoa. From there, there is a road that goes north to Ingleses, a paved freeway inside the Parque Florestal Rio Vermelho, bordered by eucalyptus and pine trees. The Lagoa continues on the left for about 8 km, until reaching São João do Rio Vermelho, a small native community, where it ends. A good observation point is at the Environmental Police barracks. Further on, on the Rio Vermelho, you can see the banks on the other side, at the foot of Morros do Saquinho and Tijuco.
On the right side of this road, along the entire length of the Park, is Praia do Moçambique, the largest on the island, with 12 kilometers from Barra da Lagoa to Ponta das Aranhas, almost at Santinho. On the side of Morro da Lagoa, at Mirante do Turista, up to here, you travel about 20 kilometers, passing by five beaches, a lagoon and infinite worlds.
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24 hour lagoon
The day at Lagoa da Conceição starts early and ends late. At dawn, fishermen go out with their boats along Barra while waiters collect the bottles, clean the tables and close the bars. Early risers observe the movement while jogging, cycling or fetching the first batch of bread. The first cars with surfboards on the roof appear. Lagoa, despite not having waves, is a surfer's paradise. Around it are the best beaches for sport on the Island: Joaquina, Mole, Mozambique. Lagoa is the way for all of them and, from its roads, you can reach Santinho, in the north, and Campeche, in the south. All paths cross at Lagoa.
The Lagoon is also the stage for other extreme sports. From the hills that surround it, it is common to see hang gliders and paragliders coloring the sky. In the dunes, from Avenida das Rendeiras to Joaquina, sandboard is practiced, a type of surfing practiced on the sand. In Lagoa, motorboats, small sailing boats, jet-skys, diving and windsurfing dominate. Santa Catarina Island does not have marinas on its coasts, on the other hand Lagoa has good marinas in operation. It is from them that the boats that cross its waters and venture out to sea through the Barra channel leave.
Most small sailboats leave from the LIC (Lagoa Iate Clube), which organizes regattas valid for the state and national calendar and has good nautical infrastructure. The only restriction to navigation in Lagoa is caused by the two bridges - the one connecting Centrinho to Av. das Rendeiras and another on the Barra channel. Both have a low span and prevent the passage of sailing boats, unless the mast can be removed and replaced; It takes a lot of work, but it ends up being worth it.
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In the middle of the morning, the Lagoon starts to boil, especially on weekends. The sportsmen are already in the waters, or on the hills, when the beachgoers arrive. Then there is the first traffic jam of the day, at Morro da Lagoa, when cars line up, on the way up, behind the Barra da Lagoa bus.
midday sun
Lunchtime is democratic and elastic in Lagoa. From 11 am it is possible to eat anything, anywhere, for any price. It has restaurants of all specialties: seafood, pasta, pizza, natural food and even a juice and sandwich shop. The lot's - one commercial is enough for two or three and costs a lot - are concentrated in Canto da Lagoa. The most sophisticated are in Centrinho and Avenida das Rendeiras, where the marinas are. On the coast, it is possible to eat well and cheaply. In Joaquina and Barra, especially in Fortaleza (on the bank of the canal), there are also good and varied options.
In the afternoon, as in the morning, the best program is the sun, the beach, the sea, the lagoon, the flirting, the observation of human types that, together with the scenery of natural beauty, make the Lagoon enchant. There is the little man who takes his little bird for a walk carrying the cage. There's the aerobics teacher jogging with the dog. There's the girl who always goes topless in the left corner of Praia Mole. There's the bearded, paunchy blonde who plays racquetball looking at the topless girl. There are show people. presenters, television reporters, singers and instrumentalists who rock the nights in bars and are seen in restaurants, bars, warehouses, on the beaches. There's the Rastafarian with his hair in braids and his eternal cap with the colors of Jamaica. There's Andrino, a famous idiot who was once mayor, federal deputy and owner of the health center. The characters are endless.
The Hour of the Setting Sun
They all meet in the late afternoon around Postinho, a gas station located in Centrinho, next to the mall. There are some confectioneries that share a hungry clientele. From 16 pm to 19 pm, the movement doesn't stop and spreads throughout the surroundings: supermarkets, shops, bakeries, newsstands, the square where there are sometimes shows or craft fairs, the Casarão, the bars...
During this period, the second traffic jam takes place, the one on the way home. Depending on the weather it is more or less intense. If it rains in the middle of the afternoon, it gets even more complicated: Everyone leaves the beach at the same time. Those who leave Joaquina compete for space with those who come from Barra and Mole to enter Avenida das Rendeiras. Then, on the hill of Lagoa, everyone queues up behind the bus - bus and tourist. With everyone tired, sweaty, salty and hungry, the level of irritation is immense. But the view and the climate of the Lagoon make up for it!
Agitation until dawn
In the early evening, there is an interregnum. A stop for dinner, bath, production for the night reign. Soon, the Lagoon fills up again. There, the addresses of the agitation change. A "way of the cross" under the moonlight begins at Mirante do Turista, and ends at Ponto de Vista, after Praia Mole, on the road to Barra, both with a breathtaking panoramic view of the Lagoon at night. Between the two, there are dozens of alternatives.
One of them is in Centrinho itself, with several options of bars and nightclubs and an ideal warehouse for dating. Also in Centrinho there are bars at the marinas and some restaurants. The action continues after the bridge with the many bars and nightclubs on Avenida das Rendeiras. On the way towards Rio Tavares there are also some interesting options, from a pool bar to specialized restaurants. The same happens on the way to the Joaquina dunes, ending up at the traditional Bar Deraiz.
Video of Lagoa da Conceição:
Enjoy a schooner ride through Lagoa da Conceição with the Lady Manoela Scunas.
Veja more about Lagoa da Conceição, its sights and tourist services.
