learning to surf

Basically surfing consists of going down a wave balanced on top of a board. At first it seems easy, but it is necessary for the surfer to have a series of knowledge that precedes the mastery of the wise positions that allow you to "catch the wave".

The first condition to be a good surfer is knowing how to observe the sea. See where the wave breaks (break), what is the direction of the water, how is the wind. First of all, the good surfer is a careful observer of the sea and a real connoisseur of winds and tides.

When lying on a board, you should not be too far ahead (this would cause the beak to sink) and not too far back (which would cause the opposite). The sensitivity of each gives the best position. Then just paddle in the direction of the waves. It only takes a few strokes to understand the variations in direction and initiate the fundamental intimacy with the instrument.

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Balance is a determining factor in surfing. The important thing in balance when standing on the board is the base. The position of the feet will give this base. A good method of learning to stand is to train out of the water, on the board in the sand, or even in a risk drawn in the sand. Destruction of the risk on the board would result in imbalance.

With your hands placed on the edge, as if you were going to do an abdominal push-up, you should get up quickly, with your feet fixed in the same place, that is, with the supporting foot behind you. This support foot must be transverse to the board. The front foot, which allows the maneuver, is on top of the stringer, that is, the middle line of the board. The correct place to stand is a little behind the mid-float point of the board (in the place where the chest was supported in the lying position).

For beginners, the best option is to "take" to the side where you can face the wave (front-side), that is, whoever puts the right foot in front is front side in waves to the left. On the other hand, those who put their left foot forward are front side in waves to the right. This is the basic principle of balance, which should enable all maneuvers on the wave.

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But when the surfer has his back to the wave, it is often said that he is back side to the side the wave breaks (Sport Status, s/d).

Equipment needed for surfing

Plank, paraffin and leash (cord). If it's cold, it's recommended to use a rubber suit and if it's too hot, a lycra shirt so that the contact with the paraffin doesn't burn the skin.

The most popular tricks among surfers

• cut-back - this maneuver, often performed by surfers, is a 180 degree cut in the wave when it starts to lose quality. When the surfers return to the most critical part of the wave, it is already starting to form again. O cut back It can be either front or back side.
• front side - is when the surfer is facing the wave and back side is when he has his back to the wave.
• Aerial - is when the surfer flies over the crest of the wave. Take a flight with the board and fall back into the wall of the wave.
• Tubo - maneuver in which the surfer is covered by the wave wall.